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Let's talk about shoes


Atch  24 | 4359
14 Jul 2024   #271
And now let's talk about shoemakers - here's a little something for Alien.

I never told you Alien, did I, that one of my grandfathers was a 'master shoe and bootmaker' and indeed descended from a long, long line of same, going right back to Norman times ie. 12th century. It seems to have been a virtually unbroken line of shoemakers because the family history shows a 'cordwainer' in every generation. My grandad and his older brother were both apprenticed to their own father who had a large workshop in a place with the wonderfully Dickensian name of Gooseberry Lane. His ancestors used to refer to themself as 'cordwainers' as the first family member to come to Ireland had been a member of The Worshipful Company of Cordwainers. You know how these crafts were strictly regulated by the Guilds back then and only the cordwainer was allowed to work with Cordova leather from Spain and make shoes from new leather. A cobbler on the other hand literally 'cobbled' shoes together from scraps of old leather.

Anyway Grandad went into the British Army but when he came out he still had his set of tools and he had to earn a living so he went back to shoemaking and eventually he had a very large workshop employing twelve shoemakers plus a couple of apprentices. The workshop initially only dealt in custom made shoes but most of the customers were Anglo-Irish gentry and as they faded away Grandad opened a retail shop and began to produce shoes in different sizes that could be bought 'off the peg'. He still did the custom ones to order though. The retail unit also sold leather goods like belts, wallets, bags etc. all handmade.

Grandad made all my mother's shoes (she was an only child) when she was young. When she was a baby he made them from kid leather (goatskin) because it's the softest. He also made dancing shoes for her in kid. Somewhere at the back of a cupboard I have a pair of lasts (shoe forms) from shoes he made for her when she was about two years old :)

He stayed in business until he was seventy at which my point my grandmother really felt he should take it easy and insisted that they finally retire to the seaside. Within a year he was fed up and having lied about his age (he looked much younger than his years) applied for a job managing a shoe factory in the UK. He got the job! But during a trip to England to inspect the factory premises he was in a near-fatal car crash and that put an end to his plans.

Something I remember clearly is that he really understood the anatomy of the foot, and the health of ones' feet. It couldn't be style over substance. The shoe had to look good but not harm your feet in any way. My mother only bought shoes for us children, that he approved of :) We had to have Clarke's shoes because they provided a foot measuring service and had the biggest range of fittings for growing feet. To our fury, we weren't allowed to wear flip-flops or certain kinds of sandals. He absolutely deplored the introduction of cheap shoes in synthetic materials and said that people's feet would be 'destroyed'.

Another thing I remember is that he was very big on caring properly for your shoes. All our shoes had those wood and metal shoe trees. Out of season shoes were thoroughly aired, cleaned and polished and stored in their boxes wrapped in tissue paper. If your shoes got wet they were stuffed with newspaper and left to dry but never near a heat source. I can still recall his shoe polishing kit, kept in special tin container with different compartments and a big black velvet 'cushion' that he used for buffing the shoes to a mirror shine :))

"The term "cordwainer" is an Anglicization of the French word cordonnier, which means shoemaker, introduced into the English language after the Norman invasion in 1066. The word was derived from the city of Cordoba in the south of Spain, a stronghold of the mighty Omeyyad Kalifs until its fall in the 12th century. Moorish Cordoba was celebrated in the early Middle Ages for silversmithing and the production of cordouan leather, called "cordwain" in England. Originally made from the skin of the Musoli goat, then found in Corsica, Sardinia, and elsewhere, this leather was tawed with alum after a method supposedly known only to the Moors. Crusaders brought home much plunder and loot, including the finest leather the English shoemakers had seen. Gradually cordouan, or cordovan leather became the material most in demand for the finest footwear in all of Europe.

cordwainers.org/750-years/

So Alien, I hope you enjoyed my little tale :) Have a happy Sunday!
OP Alien  25 | 6002
14 Jul 2024   #272
Have a happy Sunday

Thank you, I wish the same. Great text, I have to digest it first, but only later. For now, Mrs. Alien took me to the outlet center which is exceptionally open today. Schwarzheide Outlet.
OP Alien  25 | 6002
14 Jul 2024   #273
cordovan leather became the material most in demand for the finest footwear in all of Europe.

I can imagine, I remember, as a young boy, I received one pair of blue shoes from the German company Salamander. These shoes were made of incredibly soft leather, unlike any Polish shoes I knew of from that time.
We had to have Clarke's shoes because they provided a foot measuring service and had the biggest range of fittings for growing feet.

When we went to England on holiday, all our children wore only Clarks. Not today, today Mrs. Alien bought 2 pairs of Geox.
back to Norman times ie. 12th century. It seems to have been a virtually unbroken line of shoemakers because the family history shows a 'cordwainer' in every generation.

This is a story worth writing. A shoemaker's workshop established in the 12th century. Wow
Atch  24 | 4359
15 Jul 2024   #274
incredibly soft leather,

Yup, my mother knew a lot about leather because of my grandad and she explained to us how to determine the quality of a piece of leather. It has to be soft and supple. Cheap leather is always stiff.
A shoemaker's workshop established in the 12th century.

And my grandad was the last of the line. His older brother had no sons and neither did he so it died when they did. My mother said Grandad passed his personal set of tools on to a promising young apprentice when he finally retired.

There is another branch of the family still in the shoe business but retail only.
OP Alien  25 | 6002
15 Jul 2024   #275
I saw that Novi stopped by for a moment and wanted to talk about grandpa's slippers and nightcaps, but he had already left. It was a short visit.🕰
OP Alien  25 | 6002
18 Jul 2024   #276
shoe business but retail only.

Clarcs only, or other brands?
jon357  73 | 23224
18 Jul 2024   #277
Clarcs

There were Clark's and K in the U.K. One had their own shops, the other didn't, This was all years ago though.

There was also a chain of shoe shops, one in every town, called Lilley and Skinner. I've not even thought about them for decades.. All gone now.
Atch  24 | 4359
18 Jul 2024   #278
Lilley and Skinner

Oh yes, Hyacinth 'Bouquet' would probably buy shoes there ;)
other brands?

Other brands. They have a good reputation for traditional "gentlemen's" footwear including these brands:

barkershoes.com/pages/about-us

cavani.co.uk/collections/mens-footwear
Atch  24 | 4359
18 Jul 2024   #279
These were the Clark's summer shoes my sister and I had to wear when we were little. We had them in brown and also in white but we hated them, We wanted the sandals but Grandad wouldn't allow us to wear the sandals that all the other children had, as he said our feet would 'spread'. We were allowed to wear sandals after our feet stopped growing. We also wore traditional white canvas runners. I was reading recently that according to medical professionals, they are much better for children than modern trainers which prevent you from running correctly.


  • a75562f93f87bacfa3c0.jpg
OP Alien  25 | 6002
18 Jul 2024   #280
barkershoes.com/pages/about-us

The 6th photo shows an employee sewing a shoe by machine. I suspect that what he does leads to the fact that these shoes may later be called Goodyear welted.
Atch  24 | 4359
18 Jul 2024   #281
This may interest you, Alien:

saphir.paris/blogs/saphir-journal/different-construction-methods-for-shoes
Novichok  5 | 8479
18 Jul 2024   #282
Can we switch to bras?

How long are you going to talk to yourself, Atch?
OP Alien  25 | 6002
18 Jul 2024   #283
This may interest you

This Norwegian welted construction is interesting. However, for winter I always buy a pair of waterproof shoes that do not have leather soles. Unfortunately, leather soles always get wet eventually and walking in wet shoes is not a pleasure.
OP Alien  25 | 6002
1 Aug 2024   #284
How long are you going to talk to yourself, Atch?

How long are you going to remain silent?
OP Alien  25 | 6002
9 Aug 2024   #285
I just saw that my Crocs are made in Bosnia. Hey Crow, does Serbia make any shoes too?
OP Alien  25 | 6002
11 Aug 2024   #287
Why is it sometimes a good idea to keep your shoes in the room safe in a hotel?
OP Alien  25 | 6002
27 Sep 2024   #288
shoes in the room safe in a hotel?

Nobody knows this old trick.
Feniks  1 | 636
28 Sep 2024   #289
Why is it sometimes a good idea to keep your shoes in the room safe in a hotel?

The only logical thing I can think of is so that you don't forget your passport/tickets/money etc when checking oiut.
OP Alien  25 | 6002
29 Sep 2024   #290
only logical thing I can think

Feniks, you're brilliant, you can't leave the hotel without shoes, that way you won't forget everything you put in the safe. 👍
OP Alien  25 | 6002
5 Oct 2024   #291
More and more hotels, however, do not have safes in the rooms, such as the hotel in Greifswald where I stayed this week. But at least there are still breakfasts.
Atch  24 | 4359
5 Oct 2024   #292
In that case, the night before you check out, you could put the things you'd normally store in the safe, into your shoes!
OP Alien  25 | 6002
6 Oct 2024   #293
put the things you'd normally store in the safe, into your shoes!

This might work, this time I thought I had forgotten my pajamas (it happens very often that they are left under the pillow), but they were there. I even got an extra dry lunch from a nice exotic waitress before I left the hotel.
OP Alien  25 | 6002
10 Nov 2024   #294
This time I went down to breakfast at the Radisson in flip-flops (but not pajamas 😁) after having spent two days passing guests returning from the spa in their bathrobes in the hallway. I normally wear shoes (comfortable ones, of course) for walking around town. I recently went back to the classic Clarks. (A premium brand in Germany).
Atch  24 | 4359
10 Nov 2024   #295
breakfast at the Radisson in flip-flops

Beats "Breakfast at Tiffanys" :)) there must be a movie/book in there somewhere!
OP Alien  25 | 6002
11 Nov 2024   #296
Beats "Breakfast at Tiffanys

The amount of food offered, certainly. Although I like the movie very much.
OP Alien  25 | 6002
30 Nov 2024   #297
I must be getting old, because for the first time I didn't go to a congress in a suit (I didn't feel like tying a tie and walking in the rain in not waterproof leather shoes). I simply put on black trousers, a navy blue sweater and a white shirt, but most importantly, I put on waterproof winter boots with a side zip, which I would never be able to wear with a suit. And this for 2 days. 🙂
Atch  24 | 4359
30 Nov 2024   #298
a congress

What do you mean by a congress? Do you mean a business meeting??
OP Alien  25 | 6002
30 Nov 2024   #299
business meeting

No, a scientific congress, i.e. sitting in a large darkened room with (sometimes) hundreds of other participants and listening to lectures. The oxygen concentration drops and the carbon dioxide slowly increases and you cannot control drowsiness. Fortunately there are breaks and always a lot of food, too much.... last time I gained 2 kilos in 2 days.
Atch  24 | 4359
30 Nov 2024   #300
Oh, I see, thank you for explaining. It's more important to be comfortable in such a situation so the old 'smart casual' is definitely the way to go. How useful do you find these congresses? Do you learn anything new?
the carbon dioxide slowly increases

Why don't they open the windows? Reminds me of a nun we had in school who wouldn't allow us to open the classroom windows during her lessons and we nicknamed her Smog 🤣

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