USA, Canada /
Why are Polish restaurants not successful in the USA? [698]
a lot of people are guilty of this on here regarding polish food. it's like that one thing they constantly cling to, always have to defend.
There are rather stupid and uninformed generalizations on both sides of the dispute. There are these Polish foods and those Polish foods - a peasant diet and refined diet. A blant, boring and repetetive one vs. "a heaven in a mouth". The one that you only eat on certain days because the tradition or rituals say so, but avoid it for the remaining days of the year. A lack of imagination vs. inspirational creativity.
For centuries the Polish cuisine was being inspired by culinary traditions of West, South and East. From Italy came various vegetables: pomidory (tomatoes), włoszczyzna (a bundle of herbs a'la Italian), kalafiory (califlowers), kalarepy (kohlrabis), selery (celeries), sałaty (salads), tymianek (thyme), bazylia (basil), koper (dill), etc.
Spices came from the East: szafran (saffron), goździki (cloves), cynamon (cinnamon), gałka muszkatołowa (nutmeg), ziele angielskie (allspice), etc.
From France - the art of making various sauces.
From Germany - the heavy food, sausages, the art of bread making.
So whoever said that Polish food was bland he must have been exposed only to a peasant cuisine. Actually, the old Polish cuisine was known for heavy uses of spices. This was partially justified by lack of refrigeration and slightly ranked smell of meats. I sometimes have an impression that heavy use of hot peppers in Mexican dishes serves exactly the same purpose: with your taste buds burning you cannot smell nor taste anything.
But I agree that most Polish restaurants in North America is of the peasant type (no offense given, just an expression) and for three reasons:
+ The owners usually employ cooks (as opposed to the real chefs) that have emigrated from some sub-carpathian villages and who only know one type of food - the peasant food: schabowy (schnitzel), surówki (raw grated vegetables), barszcz (borcht), bigos (hunter's stew), gołąbki (stuffed cabbage), grochówka (pea soup), etc.
+ Restaurant guests, especially those of the Polish or CEE background, like to occasionally sample this type of food, because it reminds them the old country. But if they cook at home at all they usually cook something more refined than the Vienna Schnitzel - the stuff they have learned from their mother or granny: zrazy zawijane (beef roulades fill with various stuffing), bitki wołowe (stewed beef slices in spiced sauces), kaczka pieczona nadziewana ... (roast duck stuffed with ...). Believe me or not, some people still exchange old recipes. My mother's home menu had very little in common with stuff they serve in Toronto restaurants, and was was probably four times their menu choices. Just to mention her vegetables soups, the best I ever eaten :-), or ten or so fruit cold summer soups with croutons and clouds of beaten egg whites or cream.
+ Notwithstanding the menu choice the "peasant cooks" do their job rather well. But I have also eaten in places whether a cook had only an approximate idea how a particular dish supposed to taste, or she made an unforgivable decision to save herself some work. For example, in one of the Polish restaurants in Toronto they reheat the "czysty barszcz z uszkami" (clear borsch with tiny dumplings stuffed with mushrooms or meat) every time another customer requests it. The dumplings should be cooked separately for each guest in clear water, then added to reheated barszcz - otherwise the dumplings become soggy and unappetizing. Polish clear chicken soup should be served with thin spaghetti noodles cooked afresh, sprinkled with freshly cut herbs of their choice (italian parsley, menthe, basil..) and not with reheated thick tube-like macaroni and soggy vegetables.
If you google "kuchnia staropolska" or something of this sort you will find hundreds of local village restaurants in Poland, offering menus which are 10 times more interesting than any best known Polish restaurants in any big city in North America - with various fish (grilled, broiled, with or without sauces), fowl, game, beef, pork, various salads and vegetable dishes. This is a sad fact, but there is no motivation to improve menus of Polish restaurants in USA or Canada. But thing like "staropolska zupa piwna" (Old Polish beer soup) are definitely easy to make and sound like a good magnet for new customers.
Here are some examples of dishes, which I found on menus of some country inns in Poland:
Exquisite fish soup with salmon and crayfish, saffron and parsley. A Polish soup? Definitely. I was told that during three stages of cooking of such soup a lesser quality fish plus vegetables are first boiled for some time and then removed to produce a thick and tasty broth. Only in the last stage the fish and crayfish are added and cooked just right.
Boneless trout, smoked over the beech wood smoke, served with horseradish and baked apple, with cranberries and grilled potato. A Polish dish? Definitely.
Pickled lamb's leg, marinated with herbs. Specifically Polish? No, but what makes it Polish are choice of local herbs and the side dishes: buckwheat, hunter's sauce, red cabbage in wine with raisons. Yes, the buckwheat groats. Not everyone likes it since it is an acquired taste, but you should try it sometime.
Pickled doe's ham - an old Polish recipe.
Whole baked young boar - a hunter's recipe.
Shrimps fresh from the frying pan, thyme scented, served on a bed of crisp lettuce
Veal marinated in herbs, served with chanterelles, green asparagus and garlic butter. Polish? Yes. Most of you do not even know and appreciate "kurki" (chanterelles).