Travel /
Donkey visits Poland [76]
Part 10'We go now,' said Bartek. 'To our shop. It's not a shop.'
I frowned.
'You will see.'
We scrambled through some waste ground behind some factories - mostly derelct, and ascended a slope of long grass and young ash trees that had probably been growing since the area had fallen out of use, I guessed some time in the early to mid 1990s.
At the top there was the concrete shell of a building. It had no floor, just sand and broken beer bottles. 'This is the toilet.' he told me, pointing to what may have once been a cupboard. It may have once actually been a toilet, but was now a dark corner strewn with more broken beer bottles. I looked at his trainers, somehow clean despite the terrain we had been crossing. I looked at my new brown shoes. Was I displaying some sort of English sartorial elegance or was I just a bit old?
He told me how he and his mates often went there to drink. He didn't like the way so many bottles had been smashed - they had made quite a collection, but it looked like someone had been shooting them. There was even a board supported by piles of bricks that had proabably been used in this wayward activity.
I sat down on the window ledge over-looking the slope we had just climbed. Through the opposite hole that had once been a window I could see a flat area, possibly tarmac, that looked just as unused as everything else. So I looked down at the wildflowers and the derelect industrial buildings below.
We drank our bottles of £omża Export. I wondered where they might be exporting this stuff to. You don't find much more than Żywiec and Tyskie where I live.
I put my empty bottle down, he threw his out of the window and it disappeared into the trees. 'Aaaagh!' I made the sound of an animal being stuck by a flying bottle. 'Wiewiórka!' He looked at me with a kind of 'You know the word for squirrel!' expression.
The former power station buildings were full of rubble and asbestos. Climbing over some bricks to keep up with Bartek, we looked into a small room with a tattered flag amongst the rubble. He said something about communist times that I couldn't quite understand. I always get the feeling that if someone doesn't want to talk about those days, you don't ask them. In Bartek's case I didn't ask because of his youth, poor English and the fact he'd move on to another room and was talking about how this was 'Marcin's lounge!'
'Come on. I show you Marcin's swimming pool!'
God knows what it had been, but it looked like a health and safety nightmare. Two very deep, asbestos-lined tanks with some oily liquid in the bottom and a large rusty framework supporting some rusty steps down to a rusty platform. 'Marcin's swimming pool' he said again. Poor Marcin - the butt of most of their jokes - I have to admit that even I had joined in to some extent. It suits him - he knew he wasn't the brightest one, but was probably the most cheerful.
After climbing back up the steps from the Devil's bath-tub, we approached the centrepiece - a huge concrete tower that can be seen from all around £omża, from the upstairs in the house I was staying in and from the hills above town where we had gone on the first day. 'Great.' I said. 'Shall we move on?' It was just a dirty great lump of concrete - visually dominating, but you can't do anything with it. It actually seemed more dominating by it's omnipresence around town than standing below it.
As we walked back towards the shop for another beer to warm us up for the night out, we walked through a part of the factory complex where men in overalls were actually working and pushing trolleys around. They seemed to pay no attention to us - not even a 'Grrr! Pesky kids!' sort of look. 'Don't worry about them!' We walked on. We walked a kind of 'There's no reason we're not supposed to be here.' kind of walk.
I waited for Bartek to climb over the chain-link fence. I looked at the hollow brick building, the smashed windows, the flowers growing amongst the broken glass below. Then I jumped over the fence. Moments later, we were back in the shop, deciding which mystery brand of cigarettes to buy, but knowing that the beer had to be £omża. The label on the bottle really ought to have a dirty great chimney on it somewhere.
Part 11The film stopped and the spare driver made an announcement. We were to stop for a fifteen minute break. The film had been good. I didn't know what was going on or what was being said, but other passengers were laughing from time to time. What made it good was that it was the first Polish film I had seen in Poland - when the television had been switched on in the house, the films were nearly always American, but overlain by the gentle deadpan of the narrator, speaking over all of the dialogue with the translation.
I rolled a ciagrette as I waited for a space in the queue down the aisle. Great! Someone from the seat behind mine getting something out of their bag and holding everyone up behind. I slipped off the coach and sparked up the moment I touched down. The sun was slowly climbing down to the trees on the horizon.
My legs needed a stretch, so I walked around the picinc area by the car park. Others just stood by the coach whilst one or two other people were also just walking to get the circulation going in their weary limbs again. I stopped to roll a second cigarette. There were swifts swooping over the field of wheat that lay before me like a golden sea. I watched them darting and glding, catching their evening meal of insects buzzing in the warm evening air.
I strolled on. There was a small building with a kiosk that was closed and some toilets. As I walked round, away from the huddled passengers, there was a young man wearing a hood and baggy jeans. He approached me and asked if I had a lighter. I dug into my pocket. I had accidentally walked off with three other people's lighters the night before. I offered him a lighter and told him it was his.
He lit a small glass pipe and offered it to me.
The swifts continued their aerobatic display. The corn swayed in the field. The sun skimmed the trees in the distance. The ash tree above me gently shook its leaves. The light was golden brown and the air was sweet.
I walked one more lap of the picnic area. The drivers finished their cigarettes and told us all to do likewise. I climbed back to my seat and back to the film. I still didn't know what was going on, but it didn't matter. The road was rolling along below and the darkening fields and woods rolling by into the night.