the roads. Awful,
The main arterial roads are getting better, largely due to EU funding. But driving at night on the smaller roads out of town is lethal. There are no street lights or road markings, combined with the lunar landscape roads and psycho drivers in mark 1/2 VW Golf's mean that unless your trip is absolutely necessary, don't risk it!
Also have you noticed the amount of roads in residential areas in towns and villages that are simply just dirt tracks?